The French Disconnection

I definitely left my fearless Amazon coat at home when I crossed the Channel to France!

I have felt very isolated much of the time on account of the fact that I am unable to chat my way along in my usual fashion! I quite lost the plot for a while and felt the threads that are pulling me back home to Oz growing stronger by the minute. This lone traveller has had enough.

Day two started out with my rear brake dragging on the tyre. I found a small car park in the French village with it narrow streets to upend my bike and have a fiddle with things. It took quite a while for me to sort it out by which time it was raining.

Undeterred off I rode up the steep hill and set out for Caen. The wind was up and driving the rain into my face. Oh well. You get that! I loved the old French buildings and the colourful flowers, I jut wished the wind and rain would go away.

When you have no common language it is hard to find the basic necessities of life." Ou est la toilette?" Yes that got through but the complicated stream of explanations just left me with my legs crossed and non the wiser.

Eventually to my relief I found a toilet on a deserted wind swept beach front. I have since ducked behind hedges, sneaked into farmers fields and given a quick scan for people or stinging nettles and voila, mission accomplished.

Head tucked in to avoid wind and rain it was not the time for photos or even enjoying the scenery. I stopped and sat under a tree for shelter, to boil up a hot cuppa and have some lunch. An Italian traveller spotted me. He was very charming although he spoke only a few English words. My home! He showed me....and mine, I gestured to my bike and trailer. His was the more colourful! We were fascinated with each other!

I battled on to the Caen Auberge de Jeunesse YHA. It was a good night with a fun Aussie lady of about my age, a Welsh girl and a young French/Egyptian archaeologist who also spoke good English.

Rolling hills to Saint-Lo. Enormously strong winds and showers again. I stayed with French Warm Showers Hosts. At first we were hesitant but Daniel, Joelle and Loren were very warm, friendly and helpful and made me very welcome. By the time we were dining and sharing a wine or two we were laughing and having a great time.

Loren, Joelle and Daniel

Saint-Lo

It is a pity that all of the other hosts that I contacted were unavailable as I find that I need the personal contact to keep my spirits up when travelling alone. Unable to communicate with anyone along the way, together with a week of extremely vigorous wind driving me backwards as I tried so hard to keep the peddles turning with my trailer increasing the required effort and wet through as well, my spirits were flagging seriously. Was this fun?  It didn't feel like it.

Saint-Lo to Genet was more of the same. Another 70kms which felt like 170kms. I hadn't eaten well either as I could not find gluten free carbs. I stopped at Gavray and had a delicious omelette, jambons et fromage with frites and salad and that helped a lot.

Straight afterwards my navigator directed me on a "shortcut" that went straight up from the Sienne river and up and up through twisting lanes. This was my worst "dog chasing day". Oh Boy! Those farmer keep some huge and fearsome canines. I was terrified that they would manage to get through or over the fences. Only one did and I swung my leg over from my bike out of the way as it came at me.

Road works when I was nearly there almost did me in. A large detour! I had struggled so hard just to move forward into the wind and now they wanted me to do an extra big circuit! Oh no, I just can't ride any further. I peered through the rain for a while. Eventually I dragged bike and trailer through the mud and debris along the side edge of the road works. One of the worker gave me "a Look" but when I apologised in English he let me go on. Luckily the rain was heavy, it hid the few tears I shed...I was close to the edge.

A rest day at Genet hostel with one helpful Canadian to converse with revived my energy. I cleaned the road sludge off my bike rims and chain. It had all been scraping as I rode along.

The Parisienne guests, a group of 8 were all very friendly. We used a mix of English and French words and gestures to communicate. I do actually have quite a large vocabulary of French words. I just get struck dumb when I front up to ask for something and cannot think of any of them.

Mont Saint Michel is an impressive sight! It towered up in front of me as I cycled out along the causeway. I saw it when I was 9 year old on a day visit from Jersey. It was well worth a second look. An old 13th Century Abbey that has been added to century by century.

I rode on to Pontorson Auberge de Jeunesse where an exceptionally personable young lad from San Fransisco and I "found each other". We were both desperate for a good lively full on chat. A self confessed son of hippie parents he was a delightful dinner companion in the hostel dining room.

Next day, still in the rain and sweating inside my raincoat I rode another 70kms to Rennes. Another big city to cycle in!

I was planning to go to La Loire and ride up the valley. A friend of Margaret who I met in Scotland was going to meet me there. Paul was in a motor home and spoke French. Unfortunately I let him down as overnight my plans completely changed.

My son Mick and I spoke on Skype. I was quite emotional and Mick pushed hard for me to join him at La Ciotat on the south coast of France. He badly wanted me to see his work environment and I badly needed some family contact.

Frantic efforts on the internet and finally I flew down, bike and all to Marseille. Mick and Edi, his girlfriend managed to get some time off and met me at the airport in the ships car. Mick is Ship Engineer and Edi Chief Stewardess on Blade a luxury motor yacht.

Edi and Mick

Mick has put me up in The Rose hotel for 3 days. What a treat. The 3 of us have been sightseeing this stunning area. Wow it is beautiful. The beaches are gorgeous, the swimming is absolutely magic and I can gaze up at the rocky backdrop as I backstroke through the water.

So wonderful to be with loved ones again.