My return to my idyllic childhood home with my son Mick has been without any doubt, the highlight of my Uk trip. So exciting. Such a joy.
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| Mick and I met at Lime St Liverpool |
Mick shared my delight with great interest in his family heritage.
A luxury for me to fly in and make ourselves at home for 4 nights in a hotel on Greve D'azette beach. We even used the jacuzzi and steam room one evening and we took full advantage of the buffet breakfast, skipping lunch and dining out at night.
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The bus service was excellent. After settling our bags in our rooms in late afternoon we were off on the bus to St Aubin's Bay where we found a really pretty walk through the woods. Our cameras were already running hot as we wandered and climbed up to vantage points for panaramic views of the bay and nearby villages.
We met a couple at a bus stop and whilst chatting I found that the lady worked and lived in staff quarters at the nearby nursing home. Hmmm maybe next year I could do that.
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| Fantastic! We walked through the woods for miles. |
Next morning without a moment to lose, we took a bus in to St Helier and hired bicycles. Off we rode, first stop my old home at st Clement's rd. St Helier. Along familiar roads, past old friends and family's houses. I just knew where to go. Wow!
Although the Ritz Hotel on the corner of Columberie lane and our house and fruit shop which adjoined it were changed to modern apartments, the lane way where we played was still the same.
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| Howard Davis Park |
We went in search of my maternal grandmothers home and were delighted to find it still there on Beach Crescent in a long row of homes. The small shed where her husband George Hairon kept his pet monkey was still there.
I had no trouble finding my way around. I found that I still knew where everything was. The whole island is beyond my descriptive ability in its beauty and diversity. Of course the main town of st Helier and the roads and infrastructure are updated but the countryside, the farms and the beaches are largely unchanged.
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| Mick on the road to La Corbierre |
We cycled along through groves of trees and flowers past quaint granite farmhouses and through picturesque farmland. Still plenty of herds of Jersey cows and large crops of Jersey royal potatoes. Neat granite walls dividing the fields, flowers everywhere. Narrow lanes but polite traffic.
Up hill with half flat tyres we arrived at Gerald Durrells famous wildlife conservation park. As children my older brother Richie and I cycled out with a little box strapped to his bike with surplus pets, golden hamsters, white mice or guinea pigs. Gerald Durrell happily took them from us and gave us a new mate for our pet at home if we wanted one. I now wonder if our pets provided snake fodder as the zoo grows much of its own food. We saw a grasshopper pen and were told of a dark cockroach breeding room...ugh!
Apart from a new glamourous entry the zoo had not changed much. It opened in 1959. We wandered through amongst the large natural enclosures enjoying seeing sleek well cared for exotic species of birds reptiles and animals. The Silverbacks Gorillas were marvellous to see as we listened to a commentary on them.
On past La Coupe and then St Catherines breakwater, past ancient castles and defence towers. My brothers and I went to great lengths back in the 50's to climb up and peer in or even climb into one or two castles. My oldest brother Richie had us clamber up onto his shoulders with a rope to hook somewhere so we could all
climb into the narrow embrasures(windowslits). I saw Green Island where I got stranded by the incoming tide as a small child until Dad rescued me.
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| Granite walls all over the island were covered in pretty flowers. |
Mick and I cycled on up past Mont Orgeuil Castle, a landmark which is lit up at night .We then cruised down through winding cobbled lanes and villages and back to our hotel for dinner at 8pm. We were tired but delighted with our first full day of exploration and downloaded our many photos and recharged the batteries for next day.
Next morning we headed for the huge Jersey tidal swimming pool where I spent many happy hours as a "Curlew" in the JSC. Parts of it were looking very shabby and the diving boards were gone. Dad's brother and sister were champion acrobatic divers in their day and Auntie Jean won Bronze diving for Jersey at the 1956 Melbourne Olympic Games.
Along the Havre Des Pas beachfront we were thrilled to find Grandpa and Grandma Gilbert's Lavender Cottage looking immaculate. The only thing missing was the garden full of lavender. Now there was only a pot full amongst the paving. Down the back was " The Bungalow" which they had built and moved to after Grandpa's heart attack as he could no longer climb the stairs in the cottage.
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Lavender Cottage |
It was Liberation Day in Jersey, a celebration of the day of freedom from the German occupation forces in World War II so we went to watch the festivities and procession of old classic cars and army tanks and other vehicles. Brass bands marched along followed by the Scottish bagpipers. It was a great atmosphere in the sunshine. Mick was glowing bright red and had to buy a hat.
We cycled around St Aubin's bay and on down to the south western point to La Corbierre Lighthouse. The gusty wind was was tossing the waves around to give us a wonderfully wild display. We watched some intrepid surfers pick there way over the rocks to launch themselves into the surf. Many a person has been cut off by the tide at La Corbierre when the pathway rapidly goes under water as the tide rages in. Jersey tides rise and fall up to 40 feet. A wild and wondrous part of Jersey.
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| La Corbierre Lighthouse |
We dined at Murray's restaurant again. Almost regulars now, the staff greeted us as friends. "Murray, did I tell you that I spent my childhood in Jersey 50 years ago?" "No! " Mick retorted, " you must be the only person on the island that she hasn't told! " More chat and Murray learned a little of my varied life and travels. He is quite the star himself. Google him and you will see. Anyway, Murray arranged for me to come in the next day and be interviewed for BBC Radio Jersey. What a thrill!
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| Brave Blokes |
On day 3 we hired a Smart Car. Places to go, things to see. We needed to cover the West and North coast. We drove along beside the fantastic flat 5 mile long beach of St Ouens. For more than 60 years, this vast sandy beach has often played host to the spectacular sight of dozens of cars and motorcycles racing each other, and the tides. I watched them as a child. Jersey coastline has remained virtually unchanged for thousands of years.
The German underground hospital was an unsettling experience. A stark reminder that during World War II over 11000 Germans occupied Jersey. 1 in 4 to the local population. Hard times indeed. Dark cold tunnels were dug into the hillside by Russian, Polish, French and Spanish slave labour. A depressing hospital. As we moved through, 33 metres underground we shivered all the more as we read accounts of the times.
My fathers family were among more than 20,000 residents not born in Jersey who were given 24 hours notice to leave or be interned in Germany in the concentration camps. All boats were full and literally at the last hour, the Gilbert family of 10 were hidden amongst potatoes in a cargo boat bound for England.
Mick and I knew this but reading the personal accounts of the times and seeing the old photos with crowds flocking down to the harbours hoping to escape left us feeling quite emotional. It really made an impact on us as to how near Dad had been to the horror of German internment.
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| Mount Bingham Defence |
I also led Mick up to Mount Bingham where in my childhood, with my brothers and cousins we climbed hand over hand down iron rungs into the World War II German underground bunkers at the cliff top to explore the eerie dark tunnels and find the cannons pointing out through gun slits to sea. All blocked off now of course but we did find them. There are many relics of the German occupation still in Jersey.
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| Now blocked entrance to German underground tunnels. |
On the north coast we visited Greve De Lecq where in the past, our families and friends spent many a warm Sunday swimming and relaxing. Yellow sand, clear water. We kids loved the rock pools with their vast array of seaweeds and creatures.
We went on to the Devil's Hole. A natural crater 200 ft deep and 100ft wide. The tide swirls and crashes around through the tunnel and into the hole at high tide. We walked around the protection barriers, I climbed up whilst Mick climbed down into the hole. We admired the stunning views of the hills of Les Reuses and used the telescope for a better view of the islands of Sark, Herm, Jettou, Brekkou and Guernsey. Alderney was out of sight.
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| Les Reuses |
We were glad of our tiny hire car as we were almost squeezed by a bus on a narrow bend at Bonne Nuit Bay.
The day was running out so we cut back through the centre of the island to St Helier where we had a wander through the town centre and had dinner.
Next morning, one last drive along the beautiful sunny southern coastline to the airport.
What a special treat to return to my childhood home and to be able to share the excitement with my son. Mick is always a great travel companion. We had such fun. It was so special.
Now I need to discover enough wealth to take my girls and their families back to this French English paradise for a holiday.
In between my exploration of the Uk, I am fortunate to be able to return to continue as live in carer/companion for Marie at Lytham St Annes. Her delightful family are regular weekend visitors. It is a pleasure to be here.
Last Weekend I cycled up to Dunsop Bridge and Clitheroe to visit Ian and Alison, Pam's brother. It was an interesting weekend. They took me walking and driving around some historic and beautiful areas. It is marvellous to be able to travel in this way, spending time with with local people and enjoying their company.
However I am off this weekend on a 5 week journey with my Tasmanian friend Macca. We are hiring a car and plan LOTS of walking in the Lakes District and Scotland. Luckily cousin Pam has just posted me her old waterproof WARM Barbour jacket. It is currently snowing in parts of Scotland.
Next blog update may not be until July.
Hey Sue, just wonderful to read your blog, you are going to be talking about this for years! I can just hear it now!! ha ha
ReplyDeletebut honestly, what a wonderful trip you are having even more with your son. You wont want to come home now. Love from Janet & JOhn